Jan Phillips

JanDPhillips@live.com

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Friday
Jul032009

Dermalogica ~ A Review By Paula Begoun, The Cosmetics Cop

Strengths: Good eye-makeup remover; a combination AHA/BHA product; a couple of commendable moisturizers.

Weaknesses: Expensive; almost every category has one or more products that contain irritating ingredients with no established benefit for skin; poor sunscreens; no products to comprehensively address the needs of acne-prone or hyperpigmented skin; unusually suspicious about any requests for ingredient information. My research assistant repeatedly contacted Dermalogica (as a consumer) and was told that questioning their ingredients was strange and “a very odd request” by every person she spoke to.

Intensive Eye Repair($45.00/.5 ounce) should not be used around the eyes because the first ingredient is fragrant rose extract. It is an OK moisturizer for normal to dry skin elsewhere on the face, though the arnica extract is present in an amount that may prove irritating to sensitive or reactive skin.

Sebum Clearing Masque($40.00/2.5 ounces) is a clay mask that contains several menthol derivatives as well as menthol itself, which makes it too irritating for all skin types. Menthol has no effect on oil production or absorption, and the pH of 4.5 prevents the salicylic acid from clearing “congested follicles.” As for follicle-cleaning, that is classic “spa-talk,” and has nothing at all to do with clogged pores or any other pore problem.

Multivitamin Power Concentrate($52.00/45 capsules) has antioxidant finesse and a non-aqueous formula, but it’s sabotaged by irritating citrus oils of lime, orange, and grapefruit. This is a dangerous product to apply to skin if it will be exposed to sunlight.